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Sri Lanka
 Country of tea, elephants and friendly people 
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Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is an ideal country to explore South Asia. It is small, surrounded by the ocean and much more quiet than India or other neighboring Asian countries. In addition, people here are friendly and the island has a lot of interesting places. We can say that Sri Lanka has absolutely everything for a good vacation, maybe except the first class hotels, but for us it was not critical, since 3 stars is quite enough for us.

We didn't plan to travel independently and contacted a local guide via the Internet. Since we liked the trip, we recommend him. Harsha Bandara is a young guy who usually goes with the driver, so you will have a guide and a driver. During our trip in February 2012 we had a Mitsubishi minibus. Two rows of seats are empty, so you can even sleep there. It is safe as the speed in Sri Lanka is very low, about 30-40 km per hour on average. Website of Harsha is http://www.lankatours.at. It is in German and has many our photos. But, of course, Harsha speaks English.

Traveling with a guide by his car is a big advantage. The most important thing is that you won't get tired, and it's important. The second point is that only a local resident is able to show you many small interesting details. Also you don't need to worry about booking the hotels. Harsha will find all hotels on-site. Write him at this address.

We chose the end of January - beginning of February, the weather was perfect during the entire trip. Here is our 8-day trip to Sri Lanka:

Map of our trip in Sri Lanka
Map of our trip in Sri Lanka ©Yuriy Buriak

Day 1

We arrived at Colombo at 3 am local time by FlyDubai with the transfer in Dubai. In the arrivals area, to the left, we bought a Dialog sim card for about $11, of which $8 was put to our account. We used this card to make phone calls home and used the 3G Internet without any problems. The calls and the Internet are very cheap.

Then we met with Harsha, loaded into the van and woke up only in the morning in Anuradhapura, where we spent half a day. It was a day off and in Sri Lanka every day off is a holiday, so many people go to temples and arrange beautiful processions.

Jethawanaramaya Dagoba
Jethawanaramaya Dagoba ©Yuriy Buriak

Some kind of procession with a very long flag
Some kind of procession with a very long flag ©Yuriy Buriak

Next, we continued to Nilaveli on the east coast. It turned out that we had a very long journey on the first day. During the next days everything was simpler. We settled in a beach hotel in Nilaveli. Except for the lack of hot water, everything else was great.

Nilaveli beach
Nilaveli beach ©Yuriy Buriak

Day 2

On this day, in the morning we planned a snorkeling trip to Pigeon Island, but due to high waves we cancelled it. Instead, we went to Trincomalee to visit Fort Frederick and the Koneswaram Temple.

Koneswaram Temple
Koneswaram Temple ©Yuriy Buriak

Then we went to a local thermal spring Kanniya and met deer on the road!

Deer in Sri Lanka
Deer in Sri Lanka ©Yuriy Buriak

It's a hot spring :)
It's a hot spring :) ©Yuriy Buriak

After that we moved towards Polonnaruwa and drove through the home town of our guide, where he showed an interesting place with lots of water monitors. They behaved very calmly and took food out of the hands of the locals. We spend a night in this town in a pretty good bungalow hotel.

Water monitor in Sri Lanka
Water monitor in Sri Lanka ©Yuriy Buriak

Water monitor in Sri Lanka
Water monitor in Sri Lanka ©Yuriy Buriak

Next, we had a small transfer to Polonnaruwa and walked around the ancient capital during the rest of the evening.

King's Council Chamber (audience hall)
King's Council Chamber (audience hall) ©Yuriy Buriak

On the way to the hotel we stopped near a huge statue of Buddha on the lake in Girithale and watched a beautiful sunset.

Statue of Buddha in Girithale
Statue of Buddha in Girithale ©Yuriy Buriak

At night we were woken up by barking dogs. They are everywhere in Sri Lanka, and for some reason they want to bark at night and near your door :)

Day 3

Early in the morning we went to Sigiriya. On the way we found an interesting structure. At night people sit there and shout to wild elephants, which can ruin their gardens.

Anti-elephant ©Yuriy Buriak

In Sigiriya we climbed the famous rock.

Sigiriya rock
Sigiriya rock ©Yuriy Buriak

Next we went in the direction of Kandy. In Dambulla we visited the wholesale vegetable and fruit market, it was interesting.

Wholesale market in Dambulla
Wholesale market in Dambulla ©Yuriy Buriak

Durian, smells awfully
Durian, smells awfully ©Yuriy Buriak

Wholesale market in Dambulla
Wholesale market in Dambulla ©Yuriy Buriak

Wholesale market in Dambulla
Wholesale market in Dambulla ©Yuriy Buriak

Wholesale market in Dambulla
Wholesale market in Dambulla ©Yuriy Buriak

Wholesale market in Dambulla
Wholesale market in Dambulla ©Yuriy Buriak

We stopped to see the unusual Nalanda Gedige Temple.

Nalanda Gedige Buddhist Temple
Nalanda Gedige Buddhist Temple ©Yuriy Buriak

In Kandy, first we decided to change money. It turned out that it was not so simple. If you cannot find a bank or an ATM, the money can be exchanged at jewelry stores (!?). And only the $100 bills are valued, the smaller ones may be changed at the worse rate.

We walked in the Temple of the Tooth, everything there is very beautiful. It is the cleanest and the most pleasant place in Sri Lanka. At the exit we bought popcorn and fed the ducks on the lake. Next we had visited an observation deck above the lake and then settled in a hotel on the hillside. The place is very picturesque.

Temple of the Tooth
Temple of the Tooth ©Yuriy Buriak

View of the Temple of the Tooth from observation deck
View of the Temple of the Tooth from observation deck ©Yuriy Buriak

On the banks of artificial lake in Kandy
On the banks of artificial lake in Kandy ©Yuriy Buriak

View from the hotel window in Kandy
View from the hotel window in Kandy ©Yuriy Buriak

The dogs got us there, too :)

Day 4

We got up early and went to Pinnawela, to the elephant orphanage. On the way we saw a local woman with two... porcupines! We stopped the car and asked her to take a picture :)

Porcupines on the street
Porcupines on the street ©Harsha Bandara

We came just in time to the elephant orphanage: fed the elephants, watched them bathe, and took pictures.

Feeding the elephant
Feeding the elephant ©Yuriy Buriak

A blind elephant near which you can take pictures
A blind elephant near which you can take pictures ©Yuriy Buriak

Elephants in Pinnawala
Elephants in Pinnawala ©Yuriy Buriak

Next we went to the Royal Botanical Gardens in Peradeniya, where we walked for two hours. After a walk we decided to buy juice and saw the local Wood Apple juice. Don't repeat our mistake :)

Drunken trees (Cook's pine alley)
Drunken trees (Cook's pine alley) ©Yuriy Buriak

On the way saw some "fruit" on the trees, went out of the car and came closer, it turned out...

Flying foxes
Flying foxes ©Yuriy Buriak

Flying foxes
Flying foxes ©Yuriy Buriak

Flying fox
Flying fox ©Yuriy Buriak

Next we went in the direction of Nuwara Eliya. As we approached the mountains, tea plantations appeared everywhere.

Tea grows everywhere - in the mountains, near the houses, along the roads.
Tea grows everywhere - in the mountains, near the houses, along the roads. ©Yuriy Buriak

We decided to look at the bushes and immediately came the women who were gathering the tea. We took pictures with them for $1.

©Yuriy Buriak

We decided to buy tea and visited the factory.

Mackwoods tea factory
Mackwoods tea factory ©Yuriy Buriak

The next stop was Ramboda Falls where we had lunch.

Ramboda Falls
Ramboda Falls ©Yuriy Buriak

We arrived at Nuwara Eliya, the colonial resort in the mountains. The temperature here is much lower, around +13 Celsius against +26 on the coast. In the center there are old colonial houses and post office. We went to the post office to send a postcard to Ukraine, but there was no postcards. So we crossed the road and bought the postcards in a gift shop. As a result, the postcard didn't reach the destination :)

Old post office
Old post office ©Yuriy Buriak

Sending a postcard home
Sending a postcard home ©Yuriy Buriak

We spent the night in a colonial English hotel. It was very cold in the hotel, so we decided to take a heater into the room.

Day 5

We woke up very early as we were going to Horton Plains, and you should be there by 6 am. Horton Plains is a must-see place in Sri Lanka.

Morning landscape on Horton Plains
Morning landscape on Horton Plains ©Yuriy Buriak

Morning dew on Horton Plains
Morning dew on Horton Plains ©Yuriy Buriak

View from the World's End
View from the World's End ©Yuriy Buriak

Baker Falls
Baker Falls ©Yuriy Buriak

We went down from the plains by a different road and drove to the Ohiya train station. There we bought train tickets to the third-class carriage and drove about an hour to Haputale, where was our next hotel. Harsha with the driver went there by car. There are carriages of all three classes, but we can drive first class in Ukraine, and in Sri Lanka we wanted to see the third class. Trains in Sri Lanka are quite civilized, unlike the Indian ones, which are often depicted on "demotivators". The train runs among the picturesque places and some travel agencies include it in the their programs. Even in the third class there was no problems with seats. The tickets are very cheap.

©Yuriy Buriak

©Yuriy Buriak

©Yuriy Buriak

From Haputale we first went to the tallest waterfall in Sri Lanka, Bambarakanda, which flows down from the Horton Plains, and then returned to the hotel.

Bambarakanda Falls
Bambarakanda Falls ©Yuriy Buriak

Our hotel in Haputale offered a beautiful view from the balcony and in the evening we just relaxed and watched the local chipmunks and cats.

View from the hotel balcony in Haputale
View from the hotel balcony in Haputale ©Yuriy Buriak

View from the hotel balcony in Haputale
View from the hotel balcony in Haputale ©Yuriy Buriak

Day 6

On that day we went in the south coast direction. We asked Harsha to drive through Ella, as we had heard about that place. Ella is really beautiful, but it's located in the mountains and it's not easy to get there or find a good place to stay overnight.

We visited the Dowa rock temple. 

Dowa rock temple
Dowa rock temple ©Yuriy Buriak

©Yuriy Buriak

The locals write their wishes on the flags.

©Yuriy Buriak

Next stop was the Ravana Falls with a lot of monkeys around.

Ravana Falls
Ravana Falls ©Yuriy Buriak

Beggars along the road near Ravana Falls
Beggars along the road near Ravana Falls ©Yuriy Buriak

We stopped near interesting trees. It was a rubber tree, Harsha showed us how the rubber is extracted. The smell is awful :)

Rubber tree
Rubber tree ©Yuriy Buriak

©Yuriy Buriak

Rubber tree
Rubber tree ©Yuriy Buriak

The next stop was the Diyaluma waterfall.

Diyaluma Falls
Diyaluma Falls ©Yuriy Buriak

We also visited the Buduruwagala Temple. This place unknown to tourists and therefore it's interesting.

Buduruwagala Temple
Buduruwagala Temple ©Yuriy Buriak

There's a lot of interesting plants in this area. For example, if you touch these leaves (shy mimosa), they will immediately fold.

If you touch this plant, its leaves instantly fold.
If you touch this plant, its leaves instantly fold. ©Yuriy Buriak

We arrived at Tissamaharama, settled into the hotel, had lunch, rested and went on a safari in the Yala National Park. This is one of the best places in Sri Lanka.

Jeeps are both old and new.
Jeeps are both old and new. ©Yuriy Buriak

Buffaloes ©Yuriy Buriak

Sometimes elephants are on the road, you have to wait until they give way.
Sometimes elephants are on the road, you have to wait until they give way. ©Yuriy Buriak

Deer are everywhere in the park.
Deer are everywhere in the park. ©Yuriy Buriak

Day 7

All day long we were driving along the coast. First we stopped in the Wewurukannala Vihara Temple, where we ascended to the head of Buddha and looked at 500 drawings in the style of Dexter.

Wewurukannala Vihara Temple
Wewurukannala Vihara Temple ©Yuriy Buriak

Wewurukannala Vihara Temple
Wewurukannala Vihara Temple ©Yuriy Buriak

Then we walked in the southernmost place of Sri Lanka, near the lighthouse in Dondra.

Lighthouse in Dondra
Lighthouse in Dondra ©Yuriy Buriak

Checked the best beach of the island, Mirissa

Mirissa beach
Mirissa beach ©Yuriy Buriak

Saw the fishermen on poles in Weligama Bay

Fisherman on a pole in Weligama Bay
Fisherman on a pole in Weligama Bay ©Yuriy Buriak

And walked around the Galle fort, where attempted to withdraw money from one of the ATMs. It was a big surprise for us that the Visa cards don't work in many ATMs of Sri Lanka. Luckily, we had a Mastercard.

Galle Fort
Galle Fort ©Yuriy Buriak

Streets inside the Galle Fort
Streets inside the Galle Fort ©Yuriy Buriak

After Galle we stopped near a monument. It reminds of the tragic events of 2004, when south coast of Sri Lanka was devastated by tsunami. At this point, a 6-meter wave destroyed a crowded train and killed more than 1,700 people. This disaster is the largest railway catastrophe in the history. In total, 35,000 people were killed in Sri Lanka, more than half a million lost their homes. Unfortunately, modern tsunami warning systems are too complex, and the main problem is that they don't always work.

Tsunami memorial near Galle
Tsunami memorial near Galle ©Yuriy Buriak

Tsunami memorial near Galle
Tsunami memorial near Galle ©Yuriy Buriak

Parents of this girl were killed, but she escaped and sat on a tree until the water subsided.

Tsunami memorial near Galle
Tsunami memorial near Galle ©Yuriy Buriak

The events of 2004 are shown in the movie "The Impossible" (2012).

Then we began to look for a hotel and it was not easy. We searched for about an hour, because all hotels on the coast were occupied. We stopped at the Oasey Beach Hotel, which had free apartments on the top floor.

Funny, but only women work in this hotel. When we arrived, one of them grabbed our bag and carried it to the top floor! We tried to stop her, but failed.

Apartments in Oasey Beach Hotel
Apartments in Oasey Beach Hotel ©Yuriy Buriak

Waves on the beach in Bentota
Waves on the beach in Bentota ©Yuriy Buriak

Day 8

On the last day in the morning we went for a safari along the Madu Ganga river.

Huge monitor lizards on the Madu Ganga river banks
Huge monitor lizards on the Madu Ganga river banks ©Yuriy Buriak

Boat for river trips
Boat for river trips ©Yuriy Buriak

Madu Ganga river banks
Madu Ganga river banks ©Yuriy Buriak

Mangroves ©Yuriy Buriak

Fish peeling
Fish peeling ©Yuriy Buriak

We also stopped at the turtle hatchery in Kosgoda.

Turtle hatchery in Kosgoda
Turtle hatchery in Kosgoda ©Yuriy Buriak

Turtle hatchery in Kosgoda
Turtle hatchery in Kosgoda ©Yuriy Buriak

Our flight was at night, so there was still plenty of time. First we walked in Colombo.

Galle Face hotel
Galle Face hotel ©Yuriy Buriak

World Trade Center in the distance
World Trade Center in the distance ©Yuriy Buriak

Island in the middle of the Beira lake
Island in the middle of the Beira lake ©Yuriy Buriak

And then we went to a beach hotel in Negombo, where we rested on the beach until the evening for a small amount of money. As it was not convenient to stay in the hotel for several hours, we just slept in the car in the parking lot of the airport.

Sri Lanka left only positive impressions. If you are still thinking whether to go or not to go, we are sure that our reports will dispel all doubts.

General tips:
 - You can get an e-visa at this wesite http://eta.gov.lk/slvisa/.
 - If you need a sim card, buy Dialog at the airport.
 - You need to go barefoot and bareheaded to temples and holy places.
 - The main food is fried rice or noodles with fillers: vegetables, chicken or seafood. We always asked "not spicy".
 - Visa cards don't work in many ATMs on the island.
 - There is no hot water in inexpensive hotels and guesthouses.
 - Sri Lanka has special sockets.
 - Room price may not include tax (~10%), which you will pay later.
 - On the Internet, there was information about a common ticket for several places in the cultural triangle: Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura. In February 2012 such tickets were gone.
 - Don't let local guides follow you near the tourist places, otherwise they will claim the money.
 - Be careful with Tuk Tuks, their favorite activity is to say that the price is "200" rupees, and in the end of the trip they say that you agreed to "2000".

Comments (Total: 18)

2013-11-03 11:54 # 1 Alex creative
Один из самых толковых и занимательных отзывов о Ланке!!!

2013-11-23 22:19 # 2 Евгений Гурбич
Ездили с женой на 2 недели на Шри Ланку. Брали в аренду авто. Объездили остров по тому же маршруту, что описан в данной статье (с небольшими отклонениями). Очень понравилось!!! Памятники. По правде сказать - на Ланке памятники древности не впечатляют, есть только одно-два интересных места. Интересное. Тут очень интересно наблюдать дикую природу - вараны, павлины, игуаны, обезьяны, слоны, попугаи, леопарды, медведи(!) живут тут своей жизнью в дикой природе и часто многие из выше перечисленный перебегают дорогу прямо перед машиной! Ну и конечно же море. Море. Тут очень красивые пляжи с умеренно большими волнами - где можно учится серфингу начинающим серфингистам, и тихие заливы - где прямо у берега можно найти кораллы и наблюдать за подводной живностью в маске с трубкой. Население. Местное население дружелюбное и любознательное - нас однажды остановил полицейский потому что ему было любопытно пообщаться с белыми людьми, расспросить откуда мы и как у нас дела ))) Но с ланкийцами тоже надо держать ухо в остро - прежде чем сфотографироваться с обезьянкой или дикобразом - спросите сколько это будет стоить, иначе сумма названая после фото Вас разочарует, так как будет в пять раз больше реальной (вы же не уточняли сколько это стоит:)). Передвижение по стране. Машину в аренду тут брать не советую - левостороннее движение, ланкийцы правил не соблюдают, ловят миллиметровые зазоры. Вероятность попадания в мелкое дтп - 70-80 процентов. Плюс Вам придется делать местные временные права в местном МРЕО, в Коломбо (на это уходит пол дня). Проще взять водителя с машиной, как сделал автор статьи. Кухня. Тут очень вкусные морепродукты. Еще тут есть такая законмерность - чем дешевле отель - тем искреннее персонал и вкуснее кухня в ресторане )

2013-12-06 03:27 # 3 Николай Г.
Дуже цікаво!

2014-01-23 21:16 # 4 Ого
Спасибо за статью, лучше любого гида)) Надо будет поездить по Шри-Ланке...

2014-06-18 12:06 # 5 Cantaloupe Aqua
Privet ti seychas v Sri Lanke, ya hochu obgovorit o sotrudnichestve.


2015-06-04 08:48 # 6 Robert Ronning
That's a great photos, I love it. Sri Lanka is a tourist location in Asia is quite interesting. because this place offers an exotic natural beauty. it is also supported by a growing tourism accommodation. very interesting to visit. information about Sri Lanka and all tourist accommodation: http://www.srilankajetaime.com/we-love-it .... thanks for share.

2015-06-09 00:56 # 7 Юля
Все описано прекрасно. Я по єтому отзыву и ориентировалась, когда строила свои маршруты. Посетиал эту волшебную страну 21/04/2015 - 05/05/2015.Все пишут про сезон дождей с мая по август. Ну был дождь 2 раза, и то 1- мы как раз ехали на Сигирию, 2- побывали в гостях у местных жителей. Конечно, комари у них очень злые. Прошу учесть следующие дополнения: не меняйте кучу денег в аэропорту, это однозначно не выгодно. На месте будет на 1 доллре на 5-7 руппи выгоднее. Тем более, особо покупать там нечего, а обратно будет напряжно поменять (в аэропорту наза на 20 рубби за 1 доллар дешевле дают), мне хватило поменяных 150 долларов.МЫ кушали лангустов каждый день, сделали массаж ( самы йдорогой), купити шлепки, их традиционный алкоголь, съездили на 3 экскурсии. Очень прошу -обратить внимание на фрукт-саусеп.Почитайте в нете-это чуль ли не самый противоонкологический продукт в мире. Невероятно вкусный. Шкурку подсушите в духовке и в чай. Также, накушайтесь лангустов (1600-2500 руппи/кг).Мы покупали на рынке, и затем нам это готовили в кафе за 400-500 рупии 1 кг. Если Вы не приверженец Будды и Буддизма, не стоит посещать все храмы т все статуи.Я люблю больше Европейское средневековье. И повсеместные статуи Будды не впечатлили, как сплошные кладбища прям на набережных, вдоль дороги. Ощущение из Союза: "и Буда такой молодой и памятник ему есть везде". Готовят вкусно, персонал в отелях очень приятный. Договориться можно обо всем. Я попросила, чтоб нас не выселяли в 12,а чтоб мы покинули номер за час до трансферного автобуса. Мило улыбнулись в ответ и согласились.Ежемесячно(а особенно мае- бешенное торжество с фонарями и шествиями по улицам) у них 3 дня полонолуния нельзя пить-"дни Будды".Но добрые и приветливые мусульманские кафе- всегда рады за 3-ю цену угостить). Кому нужно дополнительная инфа, телефоны нормальных гидов, тукеро- всегда пожалуйста.gu74@ukr.net

2015-06-20 21:55 # 8 
Очень рекомендую попробывать настоящий цейлонский чай Mackwoods Tea (идеально заваривается и на вкус настоящий черный чай) , однажды привезли его из Шри Ланки, случайно нашли в интернет магазине http://www.ceylonteas.ru/katalog/chernyy-chay-mackwoods Не для рекламы

2015-07-09 10:26 # 9 Катя
Спасибо за статью! Очень познавательно!
Поехать на Шри Ланку хочется, а что там делать как-то было непонятно.
Скажите пожалуйста, а где жили ваши гид и водитель когда вы останавливались в гостиннице? Платили ли вы за них в кафе?

2015-07-09 11:09 # 10 Юрий Буряк
2 Катя
Водители в любой стране всегда сами ищут жилье, стоимость их проживания входит в общую цену. На Шри-Ланке часто отели имеют небольшие комнатки для водителей. А вообще, там есть жилье по смешным ценам у местных. Сестра с мужем за $5 ночевали около плато Хортон :)
В кафе не платили, так как тогда мы еще не могли себе этого позволить. В последней поездке по Перу уже платили и в кафе. Водитель должен быть сыт :)

2016-03-21 23:58 # 11 Евгений
Сколько денег в итоге потратили на всю программу путешествия не считая перелеты?) Спасибо за прекрасный отзыв!

2016-03-22 01:00 # 12 Юрий Буряк
2 Евгений
$1246 - перелет за двоих
$700 - траты на месте за всё

2016-03-23 09:42 # 13 Евгений
А еще Юрий подскажите ! Национальный парк Ялу в котором вы были и есть еще Национальный прак Вилпату в которой тоже возят сафари на джипах) Вы выбрали Ялу по каким критериям? И есть ли отличия в них?

2016-03-23 10:15 # 14 2 Евгений
Ялла самый известный и раскрученный, поэтому выбрали его. Когда поедем второй раз, то посетим другие парки. Про отличия не скажу, что так в Вилпату не были. Но есть подозрения, что, так как он самый большой, то и животных там можно увидеть не так часто. В Ялле же они гарантированы в больших количествах при нормальном водителе.

2017-03-13 13:50 # 15 Елена
Подскажите о наличии страховки? она нужна?
и ещё - плохо поняла - гид ка которого даётся ссылка русскоговорящий? Соблазнительно очень поехать самостоятельно, т.к. не вылежу на пляже более 2-х дней, но не всё понятно ещё.....
Пошу помощи-подсказок "бывалых"))

2017-03-13 13:52 # 16 Елена
планирую поездку в конце апреля - начале мая....
подскажите - где лучше пляж+отель

2017-03-13 21:14 # 17 Юрий Буряк
2 Елена
Нет, он не русскоговорящий. Самостоятельно, без гида вы врядли сможете там передвигаться, если спрашиваете об этом.

Пляжные отели - это южное побережье, в районе пляжа Mirissa. Важно понимать, что если вы будете жить на пляже, то ничего посмотреть не сможете, так как до центра острова ехать минимум 6-7 часов в одну сторону. Только Галле и парк Ялла.

2020-01-31 23:04 # 18 orochka@ukr.net
дякую всім за підказки. їдемо через два дні вперше.

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